RETIN-ALTS, Plant-Based Skincare Alternatives

Lately there’s been so much buzz about “Retin-Alts,” you would think they were magical bees that produced their own special anti-aging honey. The “Alts,” claim to provide the benefits of retinoids in the healthiest way possible. Although, science on these products is in its infancy... so it can be tricky to know which ones to try. Retinoids include Retin-A and retinol products. Originally Retin-A (retinoic acid) was an acne treatment developed by Dr. Albert Kligman in 1967. Later on, to Dr. Albert’s surprise, it turned out to be a groundbreaking anti-aging discovery. It’s different than Retinol, which is a type of vitamin A, produced within the body, used in skincare. When applied topically, your enzymes turn retinol into retinoic acid. Keep in mind, if you’re vegan, before buying retinol, find out where it’s sourced. Most retinol is animal-derived from eggs, liver and fish. Retin-A is usually stronger than retinol and comes in prescription form (aka tretinoin). 

Over half a century later, Retin-A has been proven effective at slowing down signs of aging, since it rapidly increases cell turnover, lessening the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Amazing, right? Not entirely… the downside to this medicinal fountain of youth is: in spite of how effective it is, Retin-A isn’t for everyone. Because it’s very strong. And can be harsh. Side effects include: extreme dryness, rashes, and raw irritated skin. When using Retin-A, dermatologist, Caren Campbell advises patients in her handout, to “start with a pea-sized amount of this medication every third or fourth night for two weeks and slowly increase as tolerated. If your skin becomes too red, dry, or irritated, then take a few nights off. When skin returns to normal, use 3-4 times a week as tolerated.” 

Cosmetic lines such as The Ordinary, make a retinol serum combined with liquid plant-derived Squalane, a dewy plant-based oil naturally found in human skin—made from olives, rice bran and wheat germ. Squalane’s richness helps counteract the drying effects of retinol. 

Looking for a mild alternative to retinoids? For plant-based options worth considering, read on... 

Bakuchiol

The Retin-Alt darling of moment, Bakuchiol, is sourced from the Psoralea corylifolia seed, and named after the plant in Sanskrit, Bakuchi. Bakuchiol it’s said to reduce fine lines, wrinkles, improve skin texture and help heal acne. If that’s not enough, it’s being studied for anti-cancer qualities too. Want to hear more about what dermatologists have to say about Bakuchiol? Read Dr. Caren Campbell’s blog. And Dr. Keira Barr’s take on Bakuchiol in Mind Body Green. 

Resveratrol

This powerful antioxidant is known to possess supreme anti-aging properties. Sourced from grapes and olives, Resveratrol comes in serums and creams. But it’s oddly warming on skin, so before using, test a small area to make sure you don’t experience a reaction.

Other plant-based oils that contain vitamin A include: rosehip seed, Marula, Apricot Kernel, Cacay oil. *Be sure and check side effects before using.

Carotenoids vs Retinoids

Since the body converts most betacarotene into vitamin A, carotenoids are another way to get your topical dose of A; however, this slow conversion process is estimated to occur at a twelve to one ratio. Even though your body requires more carotene to produce A, that doesn’t mean it isn’t worth trying. Carotenoids are found in nature’s deep orange, yellow, and pink pigmented fruits and vegetables.

Carrot Oil 

A great source of betacarotene, Carrot oil has a lovely orange pigment, so be aware when using topically. It can be used on its own, diluted, or found in creams and serums, also haircare products. 

Astaxanthin 

One of the most potent carotenoids. Interestingly, the body does not convert its carotene content into Vitamin-A; however it does have very similar effects on skin texture, fine lines and wrinkles. Astaxanthin is the pink in pink flamingos, shrimp, and salmon; used in supplements and skincare, and natural dyes. Also, it’s vegan, derived from microalgae. Dermatologist, Dr. Keira Barr, author of the book The Skin Whisperer, says, “Astaxanthin is a powerhouse carotenoid with potent anti-inflammatory, antioxidant photo protective, immune enhancing and DNA repair benefits.” Its incredible skin benefits include, “decreasing fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and skin inflammation as well as increasing skin elasticity.” 

**Be careful of sun exposure when using retinoids. Always wear sufficient mineral based sunblock. And it’s not recommended to use vitamin C skincare products in conjunction with retinoids.